Fudgy Endeavours

The procedure for making fudge is basically as follows: mix together sugar, chocolate, milk or cream, and some other ingredients (depending on the recipe); heat them until they reach the soft-ball stage (112-115°C); add butter (without stirring) and let the mixture cool to about 45°C; stir constantly until the mixture "loses its gloss"; finally, pour the mixture into a pan, where it will set further.

The steps may seem simple, but there is much potential for failure. What follows is an account of the four times I've tried to make fudge.

Attempt 1 (many years ago, in Canada, probably inspired by the candy unit in my Foods and Nutrition class)

Result: a burnt mess at the bottom of the pan (very difficult to clean)

Notes: Presumably, the heat setting of the stove should have been lower.

Attempt 2 (a few weeks ago)

Result: hot fudge (more liquid than solid, but good on ice cream)

Notes: My guess is that the mixture never reached the soft-ball stage -- not surprising, since I didn't know how the soft-ball test works and didn't have a thermometer. Also, the pot I used was too small, so I was hesitant to let the mixture boil properly.

After the second attempt, a candy thermometer seemed like a good investment, so I bought one (or rather, my brother kindly ordered one for me). I have since gained a better understanding of the soft-ball test¹, so maybe a thermometer wasn't entirely necessary, but -- as a novice -- it's comforting to have a foolproof guide.

Attempt 3 (about a week ago)

Result: a mass of tasty (if very sweet) crumbs that melted in the mouth

Notes: I suspect that the mixture went a bit past the soft-ball stage and that I let it cool too long before mixing. The concoction was, at any rate, already quite thick when I began mixing (it crept up the beaters of the electric mixer, which is always annoying). After a few minutes of clumsy mixing, it suddenly became firm and crumbly -- perhaps due to overmixing or due to contact with ye dreaded errant sugar crystals on the side of the pot.

Attempt 4 (a few days ago)

Result: chocolate fudge! (It was, again, very sweet and a little crumbly, but definitely fudge.)

Notes: I didn't wait as long before mixing this time, which really did seem to help; the consistency of the mixture was much easier to deal with. I was also careful not to let the electric mixer scrape the sides of the pot.

Next time, I won't let the fudge get quite as hot. That way, it should turn out a little softer and less crumbly. I'll also try adding a little more salt and some cocoa, in order to balance out the sweetness and increase the chocolate flavour.

Incidentally, the recipe I used for the last two attempts was the following (based heavily on a FineCooking video):

3 3/4 cups granulated sugar
115 g unsweetened chocolate
1 1/2 cups whipping cream
1 tsp salt (I only put in a pinch or two, but that's just my foolishness)
3 Tbsp Rübenkraut
45 g cold unsalted butter

- coarsely chop the chocolate
- combine first five ingredients in a pot
- bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring gently
- cover the pot and cook for two minutes
- remove lid, insert candy thermometer
- boil until mixture reaches soft-ball stage
- remove from heat, add butter
- NO STIRRING!
- line pan with greased aluminum foil
- let cool an hour or so (to about 45°C)
- remove thermometer
- mix at high speed for 10-20 minutes
- transfer fudge into pan (preferably without scraping the sides of the pot)
- let cool for at least 2 hours

A note about Rübenkraut (also known as Zuckerrübensirup, i.e. sugar beet syrup): The original recipe calls for light corn syrup, as do most other recipes (not counting the ones that use sweetened condensed milk or marshmallows), but I wouldn't know where to find corn syrup in Berlin. Rübenkraut, being dark and strongly flavoured, is more like molasses than corn syrup, but it's much easier to find in stores here and it seemed to work well as a substitute.

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¹ I didn't realize until recently that, in the soft-ball test, you're supposed to scoop the bit of candy out of the cold water and form it into a ball -- a soft ball! -- with your fingers. I thought the candy was supposed to form a ball on its own upon being dropped in the water. Anyway, the Science of Cooking website has a very useful guide to the cold water test in general. (There's also a fudge recipe.)